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A MICHIGAN SUPER YOOPER WINTER

When it comes to affordable winter fun, no place offers more activities than the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

UP Michigan, or the UP as locals call it, is that part of Michigan that abuts Wisconsin on the Lake Superior side of the state. It's completely separate from the mitt.

Surrounded by Lake Superior, Lake Michigan and Canada to the north, the area gets a monumental amount of snow and freezing cold weather that turns it into a winter wonderland. It's like a confluence of lake effect snow, much like Buffalo NY.

No matter what the rest of the country is getting in terms of snow, the UP is getting more! I found that out last February during a visit.

To get there fly into Marquette on Northwest (Delta) through Detroit or American Eagle (American) through Chicago or Milwaukee. In either case, plan on arriving at night which isn't a bad idea since it will allow you to get a head start on a huge activity... eating.

You cook your own steak at Foggy's in Christmas. The perfectly seared one in the middle is mine...almost done!

No winter activity can begin without good food and we found plenty in the Marquette county area. Since we were up here for adventure we went to Foggy's in nearby Christmas. Christmas was one of those places you could send a card to get postmarked by Santa for your children. They no longer do that, but they still serve up the best steaks at Foggy's. Moreover, you know yours will be great because you grill it yourself. That's right - smack dad in the in the middle of the restaurant is a gigantic grill where everyone chooses their steak and then proceeds to cook it.

One thing for sure, if it's not cooked properly you have no one to blame but yourself!

You won't find a Four Seasons Hotel in the UP, the accommodations are pretty basic. One perk that our motel - the Cedar Motel in Marquette - was a sauna! Saunas are a big deal in the UP, especially after a day of winter sports!

Northern Waters Adventures has an impressive lineup of vehicles...

Our first full day, we awoke early to make our way to Munising - about 11 miles away. There we met with Carl Hansen, owner of Northern Waters Adventures and the provider for most of the needs for snowmobilers in the Marquette County. I say most because, through a previous arrangement, the local distributor of Arctic Cat products met me. 

Northern Waters has a fine selection of Ski-doo, Yamaha and Polaris vehicles from which to choose, but I have the need for speed. And that need could only be met by the Arctic Cat T Z1 Turbo LE (Re-branded Z1 Turbo Sno Pro for 2010)... the world's fastest sled. Our routes were going to take us over several expanses of the frozen Lake Superior and other wide open areas where I could let loose.

Snowmobiling is a big time form of recreation in Michigan. Here in this state dedicated to the car culture, when the snow comes down, the snowmobiles come out. Appropriately, you'll find over 6000 miles of groomed trails in Michigan. There are more than 390,000 snowmobiles registered in Michigan and contribute more than $1 billion to the state's economy every year. They take it very seriously!

This first ride would be from Munising to Pictured Rocks National Shoreline. To get there we would pass through a dense forested are before releasing onto the frozen lake for the sprint across the lake to Pictured Rocks.

I was more than impressed with this Arctic Cat Z1 Turbo - it was a rocket!

Although not a difficult ride in the least bit, we weaved through the forest and deep snow in a winter wonderland. Once onto the lake, I let the rocket loose - breaking out to a top speed of 105 mph in less than a heartbeat!

Yeah baby... this is what I'm talking about! Weeeee!

Pictured Rocks National Shoreline became a national area of protection in 1966. It was established to preserve its scenery and outstanding natural features and to provide the benefits of public recreation. The bluffs were formed from erosion, high winds and the water that trickle down through the limestone. In the winter, this water freezes forming awesome ice caves.

These sheer faces of ice invite another form of UP winter sport... ice climbing.

The ice caves are found cascading over just about every bluff and cliff; a truly awesome sight.

Some on our tour will be enjoying an afternoon of climbing courtesy of our guide from Down Wind Sports in Marquette. For this day, I'm stilling with the sled.

The ice caves along Pictured Rocks and the rocky shore of Lake Superior invite exploring and climbing.

After a brief lunch, the ice climbers went on to climb pictured rocks, while we hog riders continued back full throttle. Or at least one of us was full throttle! Once again over the frozen lake I was amazed at the trust genrated by the Arctic Cat. It was explained to me under the hood was a four stroke engine equivelant to that of a small car!

The UP area around Mrquette was always a naturalists dream. It was originally popular bythe French for trapping. But in the mid 1800s iron ore deposits were discovered and the town grew around the Jackson Mining Company and the Marquette Iron Company.

Suddenly, Marquette started growing with a vibrant mining and shipping industry. Even today remnents of that industry are evident near downtown Marquette with the [still in use] The Lake Superior & Ishpeming Railroad Ore dock. Today, Hematite and enriched ore pellets are the ores of choice.

That evening several of us decided to partake of the sauna. It gave us a chance to reflect on the day as well as to hear about the ice climbing at pictured rocks. Those climbers assured us it was a hoot, though very exhaustive.

Although snowmobiles are one of the most popular ways of getting around in the UP duringthe snowy winters, it is far from the only method. Our second full day would include dog sledding and for some the excellent Nordic skiing trails.

Aside from the heavy Germany and Swedish influence, you'll find a considerable number of relocated Alaskans living in the UP. And with them they brought one of their passions - mushing.

You get a chance to drive the sled, while the musher rides. The dogs really love running!

Before there were snowmobiles, dogs provided the fastest form of transportation across the frozen tundra. Today, Yoopers continue sledding as a form of recreation and sport. Bob Johnson of Triple Creek Kennels provides visitors with the opportunity to get hands on experience with mushing with his team of great mutts.

No, these are not the beautiful Alaskan Malamutes and Siberian Huskies one might be familiar with in classic photos of dog sledding. These are smaller, quick (but strong) bixed breeds with lots of heart and easier to train than Malamutes. For the short distances traveled his team of seven or eight are more than capable of pulling a sled. The course they follow is The Grand Isle Trail in Hiawatha National Forest - the ancient Chippewa Indian portage route used to transport supplies and canoes between Lake Superior and Lake Michigan.

John seemed quite relieved when I told (and showed him) that I had done some mushing before in Alaska and Montana - he quickly jumped into the passenger seat and turned the sled over to my command. Or somewhat command. The dogs ignored my voice preferring to listen to the one who feeds them before they took off. However, once started they effortlessly pulled us through the beautifully groomed trails soaked in the pure white of fresh fallen snow.

Triple Creek offers one or two day trips starting at only $165 including lunch. If you need accomodations near the kennels you can stay at the The Buck Sporting Lodge which is basically a rustic farmhouse nearby with a couple of rooms.

Ice fishing requires plenty of patience

We opted for a brisk two hour ride so we would have time to take in yet another Yooper winter activity - ice fishing. Considering the area is surrounded by water - Lake Superior and Lake Michigan - both of which are frozen over by mid-January, there is no surprise ice fishing is so popular.

We met our guide on Lake Superior near Munising. He explained we would be fishing for Walleye, Northern Pike, Perch, White fish, Blue Gill, Crappie, Lake Trout, Burbot, Spake, Brook and Rainbow Trout, all of which are found in the frozen lakes and bays.

We were only going to be on the lake for three or four hours so we quickly set you a portable shelter by Clam that our guide snapped up in under four minutes. With the powere auger he brought we had rods in the water in less than ten minutes - a far cry from the old days of heavy wooden sheds and axes to chip hoes in the water.

With the small Coleman propane heater he brought, we were nice and cozy; comfortable enough to create excellent fish tales! That and watching the Fish TV camera we had under the ice to see if our trophy fish was nearby.

Alas, as is the nature of fishing, the fish did not cooperate. However, nearby fishermen caught several good size trout and blue gills. Still we had a good time checking out the newest technology and practicing the lively art of conversation! Now to grab a snack.

The Marquette county area of the UP offers a tasty little treat they call 'pasties'. The pasty originated in Cornwall, England; an area still known for its pasties; it was brought to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan by immigrants who worked the copper and iron mines. They are as popular as ever while in th UP.

A fresh group of pasties has my name on it!

We went to a place called Jean Kays in Marquette, which I was told was the best pasty in the country. Who am I to argue? Jean Kay's had a selection of two - steak and vegetarian. With the steak you could have it with or without Rutabaga; I chose without. Brian Harsch, the owner soon pulled a tray of freshly baked pastie from the oven.

I almost hurt myself stuffing my face with these delectable meat pies!

Before heading in for night I decided to check out another local tradition... one that was full of camp. That was the local tourist trap.

I'm not being disrespectful by calling this market that, it is exactly what the locals call it. I tell you, Yoopers are an interesting population.

The Yooper Tourist Trap and Museum is full of every conceivable souvenier you can imagine. It also includes campy items like the World's Biggest Chain Saw and the Worlds Largest firing rifle.

A fresh group of pasties has my name on it!

That last night we got what the Yoopers are very much accustomed to - a huge snow storm. Mind you in Chicago, about three hundred miles directly south, they were getting nothing. The influence of the Canadian air and the Great Lakes moisture put on quite a show. Nevertheless the next and last day I was scheduled for the second of my snowmobile rides.

This time we left from Marquette and drove 26 mile trail to Gywnn. We had a larger group and the route was considerably faster than the previous ride since we stayed on a well groomed popular trail. (In fact an unbelievable amount of traffic - all courteous and well behaved in snowmobile etiquette.)

The scenary was beautiful, especially with the newfallen snow - old railroad trestles, rustic shacks, frozen rivers and small semi-frozen waterfalls. A photographers delight.

Which brings me to my one gaff. I stopped to take a couple of photographs while the rest continued. No worries, I was riding the worlds fastest snowmobile, I would have no problem catching up. That is If I had gone the right way!

Oh yeah, the group turned while I kept straight. After ten minutes I realized my mistake, turned around and went back. I corrected the error and, true to Artic Cat legend, had absolutely no problem catching the group. I love that Cat!

While getting ready to leave the UP, dozens of dog teams began pouring into the area. It turns out, they were arriving for the Yopper 200 dog race and annual tradition.

I wish I could have stayed but alas my flight was ready to whisk me back to the mundane. But a made one last stop at Jean Kays and loaded up on pasties. It turns out they are the perfect airport/airline food. Could we be seeing them as a fast food sensation? Nah, that wouldn't be the Yooper way.

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